Roman Food and Recipes

For the ordinary Roman, food was basic. The staple diet consisted mostly of a wheat-based porridge, seasoned with herbs or meat if available. However, as Sally Grainger's recipes show, on special occasions the table would be festooned with more luxurious fare.

Stuffed Kidneys - Serves 4

• 8 lambs kidneys.
• 2 heaped tspn fennel seed (dry roasted in pan).
• 1 heaped tspn whole pepper corns.
• 4 oz pine nuts.
• 1 large handful fresh coriander.
• 2 tbspn olive oil.
• 2 tbspn fish sauce.
• 4 oz pigs caul or large sausage skins.

Skin the kidney, split in half and remove the fat and fibres. In a mortar, pound the fennel seed with the pepper to a coarse powder. Add this to a food processor with the pine nuts. Add the washed and chopped coriander and process to a uniform consistency. Divide the mixture into 8 and place in the centre of each kidney and close them up. If you have caul use it to wrap the kidneys up to prevent the stuffing coming out. Similarly stuff the kidney inside the sausage skin. Heat the oil and seal the kidneys in a frying pan. Transfer to an oven dish and add the fish sauce. Finish cooking in a medium oven. Serve as a starter or light snack with crusty bread and a little of the juice.

Pear Patina - Serves 4

• 1½ lb firm pears.
• 10fl oz red wine.
• 2 oz raisins.
• 4 oz honey.
• 1 tspn ground cumin.
• 1 tbspn olive oil.
• 2 tbspn fish sauce.
• 4 eggs.
• plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

Peel and core the pears and cook in the wine, honey and raisins until tender. Strain and process the fruit and return to the cooking liquor. Add the cumin, oil and fish sauce and the eggs well beaten. Pour into a greased shallow dish and bake in a preheated oven (375º F) for 20 mins or until set. Let the custard stand for 10 mins before serving warm.

Libum - Serves 2

• 10 oz ricotta cheese.
• 1 egg.
• 2½ oz plain flour.
• Runny honey.

Beat the cheese with the egg and add the sieved flour very slowly and gently. Flour your hands and pat mixture into a ball and place it on a bay leaf on a baking tray. Place in moderate oven (400ºF) until set and slightly risen. Place cake on serving plate and score the top with a cross. our plenty of runny honey over the cross and serve immediately.

About the author

Sally Grainger is co-author of The Classical Cookbook, published by British Museum Press.

Published: 2001-07-01