Amir Mehdi: Left out to freeze on K2 and forgotten
8 August 2014 Last updated at 21:34 BST
Sixty years ago, Amir Mehdi was betrayed by his Italian companions and denied glory at the summit of Pakistan's K2 mountain.
For Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, it was a triumph which brought them global fame, but the conquest would not have been possible without a Pakistani porter, Amir Mehdi.
He wanted to be the first Pakistani to scale the country's highest peak, but he was betrayed by his Italian companions, left to spend a night on the ice without shelter, and was lucky to survive.
Shahzeb Jillani reports.