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If you are a fanatical foodie you might like to do a cookery course while you are in Fez. The affable Lahcen Beqqi runs half-day classes from the kitchen of Riad Tafi lalet in the medina - he will take you shopping in the Ville Nouvelle's Central Market first and then cook a delicious lunch for you while you watch and (very occasionally) assist. The excellent chefs at Riad Souafine and Roumana both run classes in Fez that are more hands-on.

Marrakesh does it better
In the Nouvelle Ville, you can join Marrakesh's rising middle class for pizza at Catanzaro and Niagara or barbecue at sidewalk restaurants along Rue ibn Aicha. Fashionable Marrakshis prefer restaurants that do double duty as discos.

Do not ask what is on the menu in a riad
For superb home-style cooking, try a riad, where meals are made to order by the in-house dada (cook). Adventurous eaters tuck into steaming bowls of snails or sheep's-head stew at thronged stalls in the Djemaa el-Fna or Ben Youssef Food Stall Qissaria.

Definitely avoid...
For a big night out, Marrakesh has some fantastic Moroccan, Mediterranean and fusion restaurants - but also many tourist-trap "palace restaurants". If your footsteps echo, your waiter is sheepishly costumed like Aladdin and there is a stage set up for a laser-light show, do not expect authentic cuisine.

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© Lonely Planet. All rights reserved. The article ‘Lonely Planet's top 10 ways to devour Moroccan cuisine’ was published in partnership with Lonely Planet.

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