The 10 greatest comeback cities
GDR-era hats for sale at Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin. (Martin Moos/LPI)
Toss aside your preconceptions, and come with us on a tour of the greatest comeback cities in the world. Once down in the urban dumps, these cities have bounced back from the brink of becoming no-go destinations, turning tumultuous pasts into tourist drawcards.
1. Berlin, Germany
Stalinist-style buildings were slated by contemporaries even as they were erected in post-World War II Berlin; architecture on Karl-Marx-Allee was mockingly dubbed "wedding-cake style". Now that Communism is kaput, it is no surprise that Soviet-era hallmarks have been preserved with a degree of tongue-in-cheek. Preservation was not easy - following the Fall many favoured obliterating Communist architecture. But if Soviet sights are your thing you can (besides visiting the Wall) catch live music at the old Träenenpalast ("hall of tears", where families said farewells near the Wall), see a movie at Communist cinema Kino International or experience the DDR Museum, where exhibits even allow you to get spied on by the Stasi.
Where to stay: Soon after the pre-Fall film The Lives of Others was released in 2006, Ostel, a self-styled "Das DDR design hotel", opened its doors. Secure a stay in its Communist-themed rooms.
2. Ayacucho, Peru
Today, Ayacucho is a colonial gem of the Andes, rivalling Cuzco for majesty. Twenty years ago, it was the heart of the Shining Path terrorist movement that decimated the Peruvian highlands, and travellers steered clear. The turnaround in Ayacucho has been monumental: paved roads only reached here in 1999. Since then tatty house facades have been spruced up and streets have been pedestrianied to get that idyllic, untouched-by-time feeling flowing again through the city. A cluster of chic-but-cheap hotels and restaurants have opened too, all in complete harmony with the buzzing colonial vibe.
Where to stay: The most charismatic colonial accommodation in Ayacucho is Hotel Santa Rosa. Check their Spanish-language website (www.hotel-santarosa.com) or stop in (Lima 166, Ayacucho).
3. Beirut, Lebanon
Rallying from devastation is typical of Beirut, a city set back by two major conflicts in the last 30 years. Meze and macchiatos are still served up from its relaxed restaurants and cafes in a downtown rebuilt to its former grandeur. Hamra, a hotbed of Lebanon's civil war, now has shops and clubs favoured by an international following of fashionistas and partygoers. Formerly on the front line, Beirut National Museum was torn apart by militia fighting, but renovation has seen the museum regain its status as a world-famous cultural centre. Much like the city as a whole, actually.
Where to stay: At the heart of downtown, Etoile Suites (www.etoilesuites.com) has individually-designed rooms and a rooftop terrace.
4. Asmara, Eritrea
Many who have glimpsed visually-arresting Asmara call it Africa's most beautiful city, due to the innovative Art Deco architecture built by Mussolini during his unsuccessful campaign to create a second Roman empire. For much of the last 50 years, however, Eritrea was embroiled in war with neighbouring Ethiopia, first for independence and then over territory. Tensions between the countries remain, but the Eritrean capital is no longer off-limits. Its treasure trove of beautiful buildings now beg for discovery, including Benito's old party headquarters and Fiat Tagliero, a futuristic fuel station shaped like a plane poised for take-off.
Where to stay: Few hotels in Asmara have their own websites. Instead, visit www.asmera.nl for intriguing information on the city, from accommodation to architecture.
5. Glasgow, Scotland
When the "Glasgow's miles better" campaign launched in 1983, the city was being mentioned in the same breath as "knife crime" and "decay". Campaign slogans, most famously fixed to rusting gasworks in the industrial outskirts, initially seemed far-fetched; yet they worked. Glasgow reinvented itself and was soon winning accolades like European City of Culture. Championing industrial heritage became integral to new-look Glasgow. The once-grim River Clyde, heart of the city's post-WWII slump, has morphed into its cultural focal point, with museums replacing derelict docklands. Ambling today through a centre of astounding architecture and cool cafe-bars, it is hard to imagine the bad times ever existed.
What to do: Trundle down the Clyde in the spirit of Glasgow's 19th-century entrepreneurs on the Waverley, the world's last ocean-going paddle steamer (www.waverleyexcursions.co.uk).