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Food and souvenirs
As relaxed as the atmosphere is, there is a mute reminder of Poland's past in the landmark red-brick lighthouse at the promenade's western end. Though it overlooks a fairground atmosphere of stalls selling all manner of tacky souvenirs and novelty toys, along with street musicians playing saxophones and accordions, it bears a grim inscription about the victims of World War II. It is a reminder of the past, but also a mark of how Poland has moved on since those dark days.

A good way of ending a beach visit here is to seek out the cluster of restaurants a short distance back from the lighthouse along ulica Towarowa. One of the better choices is Restauracja Pod Winogronami (meaning "Restaurant Under the Grapes").

Its rustic decor is cluttered with decorative pillars, tiles and railings. But the food is good, with international cuisine and a good number of fish dishes. As usual in Poland, there is plenty of pork on the menu - one of the local favourites is "trapper's cutlet with mushrooms in cream and cheese". It is probably not good for one's health, but when in Rome...

How to get there
Ryanair ( flies from London, Liverpool, Dublin and Barcelona into Szczecin-Goleniów airport, as does Norwegian ( from Oslo. Kołobrzeg is a two hour train ride from Goleniów station. There are also regular train services between Kołobrzeg and Gdańsk, which is another airport option. Railway timetables and fares can be found at

Tim Richards is an author of several Lonely Planet guides, including the Poland country guide and the Eastern Europe multi-country guide. He writes a regular travel blog at



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© 2011 Lonely Planet. All rights reserved. The article ‘Beside the Baltic seaside’ was published in partnership with Lonely Planet.

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