A few hours later, having expended my body’s supply of adrenaline, the lean-tos provided a peaceful setting to watch the sunset, with a plentiful supply of Bintang beers and just a handful of other surfers.
The best part of all? No beeping taxis, no club music and no polystyrene containers floating in the sea. And a strong possibility that the next time I return it will be the same.
Aside from Ashtari, the Full Moon Café (located halfway down the main road, Jalan Raya Kuta, on the beach side) is a series of thatched huts on the beach that serves amazing fresh fish curries and cheap beer.
World Surfaris Bali can arrange all-inclusive surf trips to Kuta, including guides. Otherwise, ask around and a local can either tell you where to go or will suggest a surf guide.