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Where to stay
Palolem Beach was largely undiscovered 15 years ago, and although that’s no longer the case, it is still a good base for exploring southern Goa, including Polem. Sevas is one of the better beach hut hotels here, with well maintained cottages set in pretty gardens, and it also offers daily yoga classes (Palolem; huts from £10).

Within an atmospheric 19th-century mansion, Panjim Peoples has elegant rooms with mosaic-covered bathrooms, deep bath tubs, and lots of antiques. There’s also a luxury tent and self-contained cottage (from £120; Panaji).

Noi Varo is an understated, luxurious Portuguese mansion. Hang out in its river-view treehouse, consult its gourmet chef and float the afternoon away in the water lounge (villa rental £300, two-night minimum; Siolim).

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The article ‘Mini guide to coastal Goa’ was published in partnership with Lonely Planet Traveller.

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