Mini guide to Edinburgh’s pubs
Where to stay
Ardmor House is a stylishly renovated Victorian property with five bedrooms and those little touches that make a place special: an open fire, thick towels, crisp white bed linen and newspapers at breakfast (74 Pilrig St; from £85).
In Hotel Missoni, the Italian fashion house has established a style icon in the heart of the Old Town. The hotel has Modernist architecture, black-and-white décor with well-judged splashes of colour, impeccably mannered staff and very comfortable rooms (1 George IV Bridge; Missoni Room from £125).
The splendid Witchery by the Castle is set in a 16th-century townhouse in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. Its eight lavish suites are furnished with antiques, tapestries, open fires and roll-top baths, and are supplied with flowers, chocolates and champagne (Castlehill; suites from £325).
Edinburgh is 4½ hours from London King’s Cross on the East Coast train line’s fastest service, which calls at York, Darlington and Newcastle (King’s Cross from £70). Trains from Manchester take 3¼ hours (from £39). Edinburgh airport is served by BA, easyJet and Flybe, from Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester, among others (Stansted from £75). The city has a good bus service (from £1.40).