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Pirjo makes her way down from the high country, winding through forests where various sets of pawprints lead off into the trees – a sign of the many reindeer, elk, wolverines, brown bears, lynx and wolves that inhabit the park. She at last arrives in the river valley that gives the park its name – Lemmenjoki means ‘warm river’ in Sami, or ‘river of love’ in Finnish.

At first broad and fringed with trees, the Lemmenjoki river narrows as it passes beneath steep-sided hills strewn with boulders. Here in a river canyon, deep in the Arctic, Lapland’s call is once again that of a frozen wilderness – the sound of perfect silence.

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The article ‘The perfect trip: Lapland’ was published in partnership with Lonely Planet Traveller.

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