Living in: Rio de Janeiro
An aerial view of Rio de Janeiro's Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon neighbourhoods. (Ruy Barbosa Pinto/Getty)
Rio de Janeiro is almost impossibly marvellous, with its curving white beaches and city neighbourhoods studded with green-shrouded mountains, all facing the blue depths of the Atlantic Ocean. The city is being transformed, as a booming economy and decreasing crime rates attract those who like to work and play hard. From the city streets during February’s Carnival to afternoons on Copacabana Beach, life here is infused with the sounds of samba and the search for the good life.
What is it known for?
The girl from Ipanema is still walking and the views from Sugarloaf Mountain on the city’s Guanabara Bay are as sweet as ever, but its Rio’s future that is the buzz right now. The city, like the rest of Brazil, is booming, not only due to the recent discovery of off-shore oil fields, but also because two huge global events are coming to Rio over the next few years. The city will host the 2014 World Cup finals and the 2016 Summer Olympics, and Rio is experiencing massive construction projects, including the rehabbing of neighbourhoods, transport and sporting venues. The famous Maracana football stadium, one of the largest in the world, is undergoing a total renovation expected to be completed in 2013 before it hosts the World Cup kick off in June 2014 and the Olympic opening ceremony in August 2016. The Metro is being expanded and new areas of the city are being constructed. For example, the Porto Maravilha, an eight billion reais project due to be completed by 2016, is stitching the revitalised Guanabara Bay harbourfront to the downtown district. The project will see the demolition of an elevated highway, the planting of 15,000 trees and construction of the Museum of Tomorrow, designed by Santiago Calatrava and set to open in 2014.
A number of the city’s famous favelas (slums), which have contained so much of Rio’s poverty and poetry, have been steadily becoming safer since the state created a new police force in 2008 that quelled much of the violence. Rents and property prices are rising so quickly in these hillside neighbourhoods – which offer up stellar views – that poorer residents cannot afford it and as such, are being forced out.
Despite all the changes taking place citywide, cariocas (residents of Rio) still gather late into the night and sway to the samba music that pours out of bars and cafes in rejuvenated neighbourhoods like Lapa in the south of the city. “Most people are very friendly and open,” said Claudia Solano, a lifelong resident. “In comparison to São Paulo, it is laid-back here, even in sophisticated places.”
Where do you want to live?
Traditionally the flat areas of the city, such as the wealthy Zona Sul (South Zone), have been the most desirable places to live. “Rich Brazilians and international buyers prefer the neighbourhoods of Leblon, Ipanema, Jardim Botanico and Lagoa, while middle-income residents buy or rent in Copacabana, Botafogo, Flamengo, Laranjeiras and Largo do Machado,” explained Robson Lemos, associate broker at the Corcoran Group. In downtown Rio and the nearby Porto Maravilha, many developments are in the pipeline. “Zoning changes allowed for [building] heights to go from four floors to up to 50 floors on the waterfront, attracting big international developers such as Donald Trump and others,” Lemos said.
Barra da Tijuca in the city’s western zone is a planned district with high-rises and modern infrastructure that will be home to the Olympic Arena, where events like gymnastics will be held, and the Olympic Aquatics Stadium. The district attracts families looking for large apartments who are priced out of Zona Sul. “You’ll find larger places for a better price,” Solano said. “The metro will get out there eventually, but having a car is a must and traffic jams are routine.” Middle-class neighbourhoods such as Tijuca and Meier in the Zona Norte (North Zone) are also very popular. “Cariocas say that Zona Norte has more of the flavour of old Rio,” Lemos said. Many people commute from Niteroi, a mid-sized city connected to Rio by bridge across Guanabara Bay.
Rio de Janeiro with Lonely Planet
Photos & videos
Rio de Janeiro