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Brunei may not offer a ready-made luxury safari experience, and animal sightings do require a lot of effort as well as a fair amount of luck. But while humans have already encroached far into the wider Borneo jungle with devastating consequences, Temburong still offers access to a largely untouched, virgin rainforest; something that is becoming ever harder to find.

A permit is required to travel independently to Ulu Temburong. To avoid this hassle and the very high cost of organising private transfers, the majority of visitors make arrangements with one of the travel agencies based in Bandar Seri Begawan. The only way to reach Ulu Temburong’s canopy walkway early enough to see the sun rise is to stay overnight at the Ulu Ulu Temburong resort, where the wake-up call is at 4:30 am. If pre-dawn starts do not appeal, Freme Travel offers an itinerary that includes a mid-morning visit to the walkway. Their tours include transfers from Bandar Seri Begawan and an overnight stay at their own Rainforest Lodge, just outside the park.

Most travellers will stop one night in Bandar Seri Begawan at the beginning or end of their Temburong visit, with the luxurious Empire Hotel and Country Club (owned by the Sultan himself and used to house Heads of State when they visit) offering an affordable splash of glamour that may be welcome after a night in the jungle. The Brunei Hotel is a convenient business-style hotel in the city centre, across the road from the colourful morning market. See the Brunei Tourism website for more information.

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