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The waltz is sacred to Viennese high society, and rules are so strict that if you want to take part in any of the exclusive opening balls, a mastery of the Viennese waltz reverse turn (which for non-dance folk means, basically, to the left) is required by all ball committees. Those who need to brush up on their moves should book a private dance lesson at Elmayer in the 1st District, a famous dance school established in 1919.

Just across the road from Elmayer is another famous dancing institution: the Spanish Riding School, home of the dancing horses. The stunning white Lipizzaner stallions perform twice a week, and less expensive morning training sessions are open to the public on a first come, first served basis, starting at 9 am.

While Vienna’s music scene can seem a little formal and traditional, there are plenty of contemporary grooves in the city; most summer evenings there are hip hop, soul and funk performances in the Museum Quarter. In its third decade of operation, legendary night club U4 in the 12th District provides electronic beats until the early hours six days a week.

Of course, finding the rhythm in Vienna can also mean a quiet stroll through the Baroque streets at night, a meander along the banks of the Danube or just stirring a cup of coffee in a cafe. After all, Mozart himself, the city’s unofficial ambassador put it best: “The music is not in the notes, but in the silence between.”

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