Montenegro's coastal comeback
For a more affordable visit, stay in Prcanj, 6km to the west. The small, laid-back town is home to little more than 1,000 souls, and the hotels here cost less than those close to Kotor's walls. The Hotel Bokeljski Dvor costs around 50 euros a night and has views across the bay.
As the Montenegrin coastline sweeps down towards the Albanian border, the land becomes flatter and the coastline has fewer of the coves and bays that lie further north. Ulcinj, a bustling resort town built around a natural harbour, is a world away from the high-end resorts near Porto Montenegro or the Bay of Kotor. Here, near the country's most revered beach – the 12km-long Velika Plaza – bars sell pints of Montenegro’s local beer, Nicsicko; kebab joints grill lamb shwarma; and holidaymakers peruse beachwear under the spires of Ottoman-inspired mosques. As the country’s northern resorts eye an increasingly well-heeled set, Ulcinj remains an island of affordability. Well, for now.
Correction: A previous version of this article incorrectly identified Montenegro as the French word for "black mountain". This has been fixed.