Want to see a lion in the wild? Head to Kenya and you’ll be fending them off with a rifle butt.
Tigers are more tricky, but for many big cat enthusiasts, it
is the experience of seeing a jaguar in its natural environment that takes the
top feline spot. The world’s third-largest cat is so solitary and
well-camouflaged that sightings are incredibly rare.
So the claim of Charles Munn, head of Latin American
adventure travel company SouthWild, that
everyone who signs up to his four-day ‘Guaranteed Jaguar’ camp will see at
least one jaguar in the wild is certainly some boast, and one I was intent on
testing as I headed to Brazil’s Pantanal. This is the world’s largest wetland –
54,000 square miles of savannah, scrubland, floodplains and waterways, and home
to an estimated 5,000 jaguars.
On the first day, we started the search by powering up the
Three Brothers River in a small motorboat. Yet the jaguars stayed true to their
elusive reputation and we had no sightings. There was plenty else to see,
however: jabiru storks, hyacinth macaws and black-collared hawks, as well as
howler monkeys, giant otters, caimans and capybaras.
Still, I was promised jaguars and sure enough, on day two,
Latin America’s most solitary cat finally showed its spots. We watched one
sitting on the high riverbank, stretching its legs and wandering along the
curve of the river, before slumping down in a preferable place further along.
The next two days brought more sightings, including a jaguar
pouncing on a caiman. This is no normal safari: seeing a threatened animal in
its natural home, in broad daylight, is a real privilege.
Gabriel O’Rorke is a
travel writer and producer for BBC World News. She lives in London.
This article was
published in partnership with Lonely Planet