you govern a country that has 246 varieties of cheese?” former French President
Charles de Gaulle once asked about his native country. Good thing he never got
around to governing Peru, a country with 2,500 soup recipes, more than 3,000
different types of potato and 2,000 species of fish.
As one of
the most biodiverse places on the planet, supporting jungle, high mountains and
coastal desert, Peru calls upon a formidable stash of raw materials to concoct
its cuisine. Aside from hauling in one of the world’s biggest asparagus crops (186,000
tonnes) and netting more fish than anywhere outside of China, the country has
gifted the global kitchen with the ubiquitous potato and the equally
omnipresent tomato, two vegetables that trace their origin and early
domestication back to the Peruvian Andes.
marinate for several centuries in a post-colonial melting pot stirred at
intervals by African slaves, Chinese labourers, indigenous Quechua, Spanish
settlers, Italian immigrants and – more recently – dynamic local chefs, this
rich homegrown bounty has been transformed into exciting fusion dishes.
Lima is Peru’s largest population centre, it is Arequipa, the nation’s second
city that claims – not without merit -- to be guardian of the country’s most
varied and inventive cuisine. Those keen on tradition can hunt down the real
deal in generations-old picanterías (literally,
“spicy restaurants”), while for modern sophistication, look for somewhere with
a Novoandina (New Andean cuisine) moniker.
in the 1980s by an audacious band of culinary
experimentalists that included Peruvian celebrity chef Gastón Acurio, Novoandina
has brought flair and creativity to Peruvian cooking without straying too far
from its three main building blocks of potatoes, corn and aji (spicy red chili peppers).
Arequipa, Novoandianan restaurants still devote a large proportion of their
menus to the common garden spud, but prepare it in a multitude of novel ways. Pastel de papas is a potato pie made
with milk, eggs, cheese and aniseed. Ocopa
Arequipeña consists of boiled potatoes doused in a pungent sauce of oil,
garlic, onions, peanuts and cheese, accented with the sweet and minty Peruvian
herb huatacay. The national
spice-of-choice, aji, is best enjoyed in the signature Arequipa dish, rocoto relleno: spicy red peppers
stuffed with ground meat and potatoes, and topped with cream and cheese. But it
is also found in many salsas, salads and causas
(mashed yellow potato dumplings).
honouring tradition, Novoandina chefs have broadened Peruvian menus by placing these reinvigorated standards alongside more offbeat
inventions, such as shrimp fishcakes and alpaca stroganoff. Chef Acurio’s boldly experimental Chicha
restaurant (named after a fermented Andean corn drink) has an eclectic menu
that illustrates the incredible breadth and diversity of Peruvian cuisine.
Highlights include cerviche – Peru’s
famous raw fish dish marinated in lemon, salt, chilli and onions – available in
dozens of different renderings, and cuy,
a shock for anyone who has ever had a pet guinea pig, but a rich treat to
Andean natives who have been eating it since pre-Inca times. Acurio puts a
clever twist on cuy by serving it “Beijing-style” with purple corn pancakes,
red peppers and pickled daikon. The equally ambitious Zigzag
restaurant helmed by Swiss-born chef, Michel Hediger juxtaposes traditional
alpaca steaks cooked on hot stones with interesting experiments in
Peruvian-Italian fusion food, most notably gnocchi made with quinoa, a
rice-like grain grown in the Andes that was once the sacred food of the Incas. Acurio
tries similar tricks in another of his restaurants, the Trattoria
del Monasterio encased in Arequipa’s emblematic Santa Catalina monastery, where
local prawns are made into lasagna.
For a real
spit-and-sawdust Arequipa eating experience, however, give the experimentalists a swerve and visit a
picantería. These traditional, only-in-Arequipa restaurants are usually located
in suburban areas and inspire fanatical local followings. Eschewing the
gimmickry of the posh city centre eateries and generally only open for lunch,
picanterías serve huge crowds of diners at communal tables in an atmosphere of
organised chaos. Do not expect standard menus; the dish selection is largely
determined by the day of the week. On a very crowded soup list, chupe de camarones is the crème de la
crème, an Arequipan specialty that uses the city’s legendary river prawns
submerged in a rich broth of milk, tomatoes, spices and hot peppers. It is traditionally
served on Fridays; try it at Tradición
Arequipeña where pan pipe-wielding music groups compete with the cacophony
of hungry diners.
indication of Arequipa’s food obsession can be seen in the amount of
gastronomic schools that lie dotted around the city. If you are visiting, you
can learn the basics on a one-day cooking course with AI
Travel. Peruvian food has gone international in recent years with television
chefs such as Acurio taking the likes of cerviche and lomo saltado (a Chinese-Peruvian fusion dish made with shredded
beef) into the mainstream. In 2004, The Economist stated that “Peru can lay claim to one of the world’s dozen or
so great cuisines” while, two years later, Lima was recognized as the
gastronomic capital of Latin America by the International Summit of Gastronomy in
Madrid. Proud Arequipeños might beg to differ, but that is another story.