Alongside its natural splendours, this charming upland area of England is home to welcoming country pubs, cosy cafes and contemporary restaurants.
Café in Edale is popular with ramblers due to it being the southern outpost
of the 268-mile Pennine Way. It’s an ideal place to fuel up for a day outside,
with fulsome cooked breakfasts, soups and lemon cake. Or if you prefer, settle
down in front of the wood-burning stove and choose something from the bookshelf
(01433 670 401; Newfold Farm; cake from £1).
Located just outside Hepworth village, The Hepworth overlooks the Holme Valley in
Yorkshire, where much of Last of the Summer Wine was filmed. The restaurant’s
dining room is a stylish affair – wood panelling, private booths and a piano in
the corner – with a modern British menu to match. Its traditional lunches
include braised Yorkshire beef with horseradish mash (Sheffield Rd; mains from
in the market town of Glossop, has a somewhat unassuming exterior, but inside
you’ll find a smart little dining room with a reputation for fine English food
cooked with flair and imagination. The menu is updated monthly in line with the
seasons, and you can expect the likes of seared pork belly, black pudding and
candied apple (01457 855 444; 110–112 High St West; closed Sun & Mon, Tue
lunch; three-course menu £23).
Beamed ceilings and a cosy stone fireplace welcome
visitors to The Miners Arms, the sole pub
in the former leadmining village of Eyam. From the outside, the building looks
younger than its 380 years. The menu consists of pub staples like fish and
chips, alongside elaborate specials such as venison steak (Water Lane; closed
Sun eve; mains from £8.95).
Tradition is everything at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Inn, a
Castleton alehouse set in a timbered, 17th-century coach house on the town’s
main road. As traditional as it may be, the pub’s menu has a few twists, such
as spicy chorizo-topped burgers and a wild boar casserole, best accompanied by
award-winning cask ales such as Silk of Amnesia. If you don’t want to leave,
they’ve got 10 comfy rooms upstairs (How Ln; mains from £8.50).
In 1845, Charlotte Brontë stayed at the George Hotel in the village of
Hathersage, and used the landlord’s name, Morton, in Jane Eyre, which she was
writing at the time. The landlord may have changed, but The George’s rambling
stone exterior remains largely intact. Inside you’ll find a restaurant offering
fresh takes on British classics, like redwood smoked salmon with mousse, and
pork wrapped in ham with pig’s cheeks (Main Rd; three-course menu £36.50).
Set on the Chatsworth Estate in Beeley, The Devonshire Arms has retained
its cosy looks in the old part of the inn, with low-beamed ceilings and an open
fireplace. As well as a superb kitchen, serving dishes such as partridge with
red cabbage, it has a well-stocked wine cellar, plus local cask ales (Devonshire
Sq; mains from £12).
The proper Bakewell tart is, as any
resident of the town will tell you, a pudding, not a tart. Many shops in
Bakewell profess to be the progenitor of the pudding, but The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop has
a very strong claim. Puddings-to-go come in hefty sizes here – try a smaller
one with cream tea (The Square; cream tea with Bakewell pudding £6.50).
The regal Fischer’s at Baslow Hall looks
like a typical 17th-century manor, despite being built in 1907. Behind the
creeper-covered walls of this small hotel in Baslow is a Michelin-starred
restaurant, where dishes such as crab and Bloody Mary cannelloni and bilberry
panna cotta are served in the Edwardian-era dining room (Calver Rd;
three-course menu from £48).
The Peak District National Park is accessible by
road via the M1 and M6. Neighbouring cities such as Manchester, Sheffield,
Derby and Stoke-on-Trent are the best gateways to the park by train. The Hope Valley Line runs between
Manchester and Sheffield, calling at Edale, Hope and Hathersage stations (Sheffield
to Edale from £12.80), while the Derwent
Valley Line runs from Derby to Matlock (from £11). Buses run between Nottingham, Derby and Manchester
and local services run within the national park (PeakPlus day ticket £6).
House is a B&B set in a 14th-century cottage of slate and oak timbers,
with five guestrooms (three are en suite). Hearty breakfasts include kippers,
hash browns and Derbyshire oatcakes (from £65; Back St).
House Hotel in Ashford-in-the-Water is a great base for exploring the
national park. Its rooms feature four-poster beds and most have views over the
gardens to the River Wye beyond (from £145; Fennel St). The East Lodge is an impressive country house hotel set in
10 acres of landscaped gardens. Its elegant suites feature plush fabrics and
ornate four-poster beds. The restaurant serves a fine breakfast (from £375;
The article 'Mini guide to the Peak District’s restaurants and pubs' was published in partnership with Lonely Planet Traveller.